These Cooks Ripped Each Other Apart: Dominic Sessa on Playing Anthony Bourdain, Kitchen Bullies and the Joys of Being a 70s Barfly

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Dominic Sessa, the breakout star of 2023’s The Holdovers, is preparing to step into the shoes of one of the most influential figures in modern culinary and travel history. In the upcoming biopic titled Tony, Sessa will portray Anthony Bourdain, the chef, author, and storyteller whose visceral prose and global curiosity redefined the public’s relationship with food and culture.

In a detailed discussion regarding his preparation for the role, Sessa highlighted the duality of Bourdain’s existence: the intellectual curiosity of a global citizen contrasted with the brutal, high-pressure environment of the professional kitchens that forged him. The film, slated for release later this year, seeks to peel back the layers of the man behind the television persona, focusing heavily on the formative years and the systemic volatility of the restaurant industry.

The Intensity of the Professional Kitchen

Central to Sessa’s portrayal is the depiction of the professional kitchen not as a place of refined art, but as a site of psychological and physical combat. Describing the atmosphere of the production, Sessa noted that the environment was designed to evoke the raw, often violent dynamics of the 1970s culinary scene.

“These cooks ripped each other apart,” Sessa remarked, referring to the aggressive interpersonal dynamics and the culture of bullying that characterized the era. According to Sessa, the role required an exploration of how ambition in the culinary world often manifested as cruelty, and how the hierarchy of the kitchen functioned as a pressure cooker for young chefs.

Sessa, 23, emphasized that embodying Bourdain meant navigating the tension between the desire for mentorship and the reality of institutional abuse. The film aims to illustrate how the “brigade system”—the rigid military-style hierarchy of the kitchen—created an environment where excellence was often pursued through intimidation and endurance.

The Allure of the 1970s Barfly

Beyond the heat of the kitchen, Tony delves into the social fringes of the 1970s, a period Sessa describes as being deeply attracted to. The actor spoke of the “joys of being a 70s barfly,” suggesting that the film captures the gritty, unfiltered social life that informed Bourdain’s worldview.

For Sessa, the 1970s setting provides a necessary backdrop for understanding Bourdain’s cynicism and his subsequent empathy for the marginalized. The bar scene, characterized by a specific brand of intellectualism mixed with substance abuse and restlessness, serves as the connective tissue between Bourdain’s professional struggles and his private reflections. This era of “unfiltered” living is presented as a catalyst for the authenticity that later defined Bourdain’s writing and television work.

Why the Portrayal Matters

The decision to cast a young actor like Sessa to portray Bourdain suggests a narrative focus on the “becoming” of the icon. By centering the story on Bourdain’s early years, the film avoids the trap of a standard retrospective, instead choosing to examine the psychological toll of the industry.

Bourdain’s legacy is inextricably linked to his 2000 memoir, Kitchen Confidential, which exposed the “dark side” of the restaurant world to a mainstream audience. By dramatizing these experiences, Tony attempts to visualize the chaos and the camaraderie that Bourdain wrote about with such precision. The film arrives at a time when the hospitality industry is undergoing a reckoning regarding mental health, labor rights, and the dismantling of the “toxic chef” archetype.

Analysis: Sessa’s portrayal of Bourdain reflects a broader trend of revisiting cultural icons through dramatized retellings, which can shape public memory of such figures. By setting the narrative in the 1970s, the film may reinforce a romanticized view of that era’s culinary culture—the “glamour of the grind”—while simultaneously highlighting its darker undercurrents, such as systemic bullying and substance abuse.

The focus on kitchen dynamics is particularly timely. For decades, the “angry chef” was a celebrated trope in media. However, as the industry moves toward more sustainable and humane working conditions, a film that explicitly shows how cooks “ripped each other apart” may serve as a critique of the very structures that the industry once idolized. There is a risk that the cinematic lens may aestheticize the trauma of the 70s kitchen, but if handled with scrutiny, it could spark a renewed conversation about the power structures within restaurant environments.

Context and Legacy

Anthony Bourdain’s impact extended far beyond the kitchen. Through his CNN series Parts Unknown and No Reservations, he transitioned from a chef to a cultural diplomat, using food as a gateway to discuss politics, history, and human rights. However, the private struggles that accompanied this public success were significant.

The biopic acknowledges the tragedy of Bourdain’s death by suicide in 2018, framing his life not as a linear success story, but as a complex struggle with depression and the weight of global expectation. By focusing on his youth, the film seeks to find the roots of this complexity, exploring how the ambition and intensity of his early career may have contributed to his later vulnerabilities.

What to Watch Next

As the release date approaches, industry observers and critics will be looking for how the film balances the “romanticism” of the 70s with the reality of Bourdain’s struggles. Key points of interest include:

1. The depiction of the “brigade system”: Whether the film accurately portrays the systemic nature of kitchen abuse or treats it as a series of isolated incidents.
2. The transition from chef to author: How the film handles the pivotal moment when Bourdain shifted from a practitioner of the craft to its most famous critic.
3. The portrayal of mental health: How the narrative weaves the threads of Bourdain’s early life into the context of his eventual passing.

Conclusion

Dominic Sessa enters the role of Anthony Bourdain with a commitment to the “unvarnished” truth of the character. By leaning into the aggression of the kitchen and the loneliness of the barfly, Sessa aims to move beyond a superficial imitation of Bourdain’s voice and mannerisms.

Tony promises to be more than a biopic; it is a study of the cost of ambition in an industry that historically demanded the total erasure of the individual in service of the plate. As the film prepares for its release, it stands as a testament to the enduring influence of a man who taught the world that the most important thing about a meal is the story of the people who made it.

Sources:
https://www.theguardian.com/film/2026/aug/07/these-cooks-ripped-each-other-apart-dominic-sessa-on-playing-anthony-bourdain-kitchen-bullies-and-the-joys-of-being-a-70s-barfly

Corrections

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Story synopsis gathered from: Guardian International — source

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